Note to self: Open when feeling broody

It’s 9:47pm and you’re three speedy glasses of cab sav in. Speedy, because, possibly, some self-medication is going down here. Three, because, well, your two-year-old daughter has only just gone to bed and it took somewhere close to ten solid attempts to get her to stay there. The final time confirmed what you suspect is … Continue reading

Bedtime, Bondi

The Southern Cross sits above the avocado tree and the slow, steady flap of a bat beats rhythm into the shrill electric static of the night’s white noise. Crickets, frogs, the bite of a motorbike revving as it pulls up, up, out of the bowl. Mosquitos leave nothing unpunctured, their leafy homes alive with the … Continue reading

To Aqaba: Live sheep exports

When my family and I lived in Jordan in the Nineties, we went exploring every weekend. Jerash, Petra, Wadi Rum, Damascus, Jerusalem – it was three years of wonder, cardamom-scented coffee, vehicle check points and beer in teapots. Back then, Amman was small and dusty. Our front garden was rimmed by young jasmine bushes and … Continue reading

Myanmar: Five postcards from where tourists don’t go

There is nothing quite like being woken up at 5am by the high-pitched warble of Burmese prayer pop blasted from temple speakers. What the rude start has in its favour, however, is the opportunity to wander the pre-dawn streets and watch burgundy-robed monks bend in thanks as they silently collect daily alms of steamed rice. … Continue reading