To Aqaba: Live sheep exports

When my family and I lived in Jordan in the Nineties, we went exploring every weekend. Jerash, Petra, Wadi Rum, Damascus, Jerusalem – it was three years of wonder, cardamom-scented coffee, vehicle check points and beer in teapots. Back then, Amman was small and dusty. Our front garden was rimmed by young jasmine bushes and … Continue reading

Myanmar: Five postcards from where tourists don’t go

There is nothing quite like being woken up at 5am by the high-pitched warble of Burmese prayer pop blasted from temple speakers. What the rude start has in its favour, however, is the opportunity to wander the pre-dawn streets and watch burgundy-robed monks bend in thanks as they silently collect daily alms of steamed rice. … Continue reading

Great Pacific Garbage Patch, 10 years on

Ten years ago, my first long feature for a commercial magazine was published and, to this day, Landfill-on-Sea for Ecologist remains my most searched-for piece of work. That’s because it taps into a massive and growing problem: our ever-swelling appetite for plastics. Plastic pollution in our oceans has shot up in the past decade, not … Continue reading

Feed, play, love

Had a baby, quit my job, packed a bag, headed to Europe. I guess somewhere, tucked behind the logistical efforts and nappy changes, there is a book about new beginnings and transformation and challenges and roaming: It’s made for a blog, really. Or at the very least an Instagram stream. Easier said than done, it … Continue reading