Blog, Portfolio

Gourmet Traveller – and the Lower East Side // 22 September 2011

My reviews for the Gourmet Traveller Guide are out now – Australians can pick up a September issue of the glossy mag and the indispensable little gastronomic guidebook, complete with my two cents’ worth, should be attached.

Mine are a handful of Brisbane joints – some great, some not quite so. I would reveal to you which 80-word ditties are mine, but that’d be telling…

In the meantime, New York heaves and expels its daily sundown breath. The tenement-lined pavements of the Lower East Side flip into rock ‘n’ roll-soaked action and lights – millions and millions of twinkling, wobbling, green, red and yellow lights – drip in necklaces across the city’s skyline.

Elsewhere, writing coming soon (excuse the hiatus while I settle into my newfound writer’s saturation, but I am learning, gradually, to channel and push): 11 September 2011, London vs NYC vs Sydney, God Bless America.

 

 

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On running in August // 20 August 2011

If it doesn’t exist in New York City, it doesn’t exist anywhere in the world. Fact.

Stamping the grubby, oily pavements in my proper, gleaming, one-size-too-big trainers, I dodged giant Chinese melons, crates of live crabs, hawking, toothless ladies and the hole-in-the-wall family restaurant where I ate a bowl of steaming pho at half past 11 last night.

Ducking under snapping lenses, past baseball caps, glistening plastic trinkets and blueberry-like, round female cops on Canal, I slowly make my way to the open air of the Hudson.

The West Side running track ribbons along next to the smooth, urban brown of the flowing water, the fresh tarmac pulsates with August heat. Prams, dogs, rollerbladers, bobbing kayaks.

If running and writing are so very similar, Mr Murakami, by now, my feet are only just making contact with the paper – getting out of Mulberry Street was a shuffling of books on the desk, uncapping a leaking ink pen and adjusting my weight on the faux-leather seat.

Heading south, the route dips onto pristine, landscaped promontories that float over the river. Tanned muscles bounce and shine in a caged sandpit – volleyball an excuse for flexing and spectatorship. I’ve fallen into a rhthym now, the kind of plod that suits the delicious opening bars of Kylie Minogue’s Slow.

Which reminds me how much I need to sort out some music to keep me company on my earnest new habit of meanderings across town. My sunglasses keep slipping down my glisttening nose – how do I sort that out? – and my leggings are too hot. I could be naked and I’d still be overheating. The plot is taking shape now, gaining pace in a certain messy, amateur style.

My face is puce. I’m stuck in a plus 16 tunnel somewhere over the World Trace Centre site. Orange tops lean against immovably solid marble walls  as they take a break from the push for a ship-shape Ground Zero memorial. A decade ago is only t minus 22 days. More visitors with more cameras and more policemen with more beaten up Courtesy, Professionalism, Respect cars.

The sun’s high. Are these new, massive, foamy sneaks really worth $105? I should have got up earlier. Wall Street has no shade – nowhere to hide. Bank upon bank of greyness, shining glass, man’s stamp on the earth. I crunch across a handkerchief of beach-coloured gravel. There’s even a young tree, slowly pushing its way up between moneyed skyscrapers.

Sweaty crowds cluster towards the East River. Worth avoiding. A Chinese symbol gives the game away – I’m running home. The root of the Brooklyn Bridge is like an energetic synapse and the warm, relieving familiarity of Bowery comes into focus. I am soaking.

The story needs an ending. I’m trying to finish the sentence now and the words are slow, hard to pick from the onslaught of potential finishing flourishes. Weaving through the Asian markets, the banh mi stalls and the foot massage parlours, my feet take me to the coded door.

The garlic from a bowl of seafood pasta follows me inside, into the air conditioned Little Italy lobby. The beeping door slams behind me and the run, the verse, ends. A full-stop will have to do.

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After a while, the layers merge // 25 July 2011

A rock n roll movie is being projected onto the side of a tenement block as, a few buildings down, a DJ sets up a rooftop soundsystem under a tent of fairy lights.

The air is thick – not just with clogging humidity and 100F heat, but with a gritty energy that gathers pace through the hot-as-a-dog’s-mouth day.

The day drips out of white noise. It begins as a pebble, gently rolling down the fuzzy, promising morning. The city’s awakening belongs to the Chinese, their bobbing heads and slow, circular lunges protective, mindful of their guardianship.

The pebble keeps tumbling. Its momentum builds, as, snow gathering, the heat burns off early mist, market stalls open and iced coffees trail from air-conditioned boltholes.  A 24-hour bar comforts the old man with the tequila bottle – he pours a sticky shot over his hollering truck driver mate as the gasping wagon turns the corner.

By the time lunchbreaks rear their opportunistic heads, crowds are swelling around food trucks and the snowball picks up pace. Bins everywhere fill with empty, clear plastic pots and matching lids, Russian dolls of a city take-away. As the end of the working day comes into sight, a cacophone of congratulatory, self-important car horns egg on the hours, cheering on the sunset.

As collared doors close in the 8 o’clock fug, an unstoppable energy has gripped the city. The snowball hurtles on as the lights change.

Nightfall brings with it wobbling strings of red tail lights, a soundtrack of too-generous sirens, the good time smell of booze and cigarettes. Beaten up ATMs and parties around hidden, grafitti’d water towers. Bottles empty. The snowball can’t get any bigger and the machines drone on.

The snow melts and the pebble sheds its day.

It slides through Chinese fingertips, as, in the park, the grey haired tai-chi starts again.

…………………………………………………………………….

And, back to work – links to all of my Daily Mail stories from New York City will be added soon. Many stories about lipstick, shoes, dresses and Kate Middleton comin’ atcha.

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And so the journey continues… // 23 June 2011

Ten months and one day ago, I arrived in the sunburnt country. I came in search of untold stories, deep skies, wobbling heat and glimpses into another, older world.

I’ve found lime green Imprezas, well-kept mosques, delicate pho, 6am jogging clubs, stunning wines, frigid June rooms, sausage sizzles, expensive beers and cheap Chinese shoes. I’ve seen a niche where solar power must sit, a fear that open attitudes to immigration could dissolve and a can-do positivity that should conquer every short-termed questionable choice out there. I’m leaving and I haven’t even scratched the surface of this country yet.

Next week, I fly from Australia. I head to New York, via a string of dastardly transit halls, to begin work for a British paper’s US office.

I’ll be blogging and writing from the Big Apple, about the Big Apple. It’ll make a change to cliff-top walks next to crashing white waves, surfers on bicycles, boutique cafes and horrible public transport – well, maybe not the last one, but at least there’s a 24-hour subway system, which cannot be a bad thing. It’ll also be a challenge, a bit of a wake-up call and a whole new chapter of the tale.

Here’s to returning to Sydney, as I have promised.

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